A sleek wooden boat whisked her away from the motu (small islet) airport toward the main island of Vaitape. The water was so shallow and crystal-clear that she could see the white coral sand beneath, creating a turquoise glow that painted the underside of the clouds.

One afternoon, she swam with sharks and stingrays, a popular activity in the lagoon, discovering that the creatures were gentle rather than menacing, contrasting with the tales told in the 1950s.

Her home for the week was an —a hallmark of luxury in this South Pacific paradise. Elena spent her first morning watching tropical fish navigate the vibrant coral reef directly from her private deck, the silence broken only by the gentle lapping of the lagoon against the stilts.